Holy Land Pilgrimage and Biblical Archeology

 

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"BUT WHEN HEROD WAS DEAD, BEHOLD, AN ANGEL OF THE LORD APPEARED
 IN A DREAM TO JOSEPH IN EGYPT SAYING, 'ARISE, TAKE THE YOUNG CHILD
AND HIS MOTHER, AND GO TO THE LAND OF ISRAEL FOR THOSE WHO
    SOUGHT THE YOUNG CHILD'S LIFE ARE DEAD' "     MATTHEW 2:19-20                                 
                                                   

Holy Sites -- Gila's Highlights

Let's reflect on Herod's Final Journey

 
Herod the king, later dubbed by historians Herod the Great, was well known for his cruelty.  In the Gospel of Matthew, Herod appears as a latter-day Pharaoh ready to murder all the infants in Bethlehem in an attempt to kill the just-born messiah.

Herod's patron, the emperor Augustus, even joked that it was better to be Herod's pig (hus) than his son (huois), which is a pun in Greek.  Paranoid that his sons would attempt to inherit his kingdom before his natural death, Herod killed at least three. But Herod's pigs, had he raised any, would be safe, for he did not eat pork, adhering to the dietary laws proscribed in Leviticus 11.
 

Herod's final journey was from Jericho to Herocion

Copyright 2013 by Gila Yudkin

 
Only 3 miles from Bethlehem, at Herodion, Herod built a sumptuous palace complete with a spacious swimming pool, intimate theater seating 300, with his closest cronies noshing hors d'oeuvres in a royal room exquisitely decorated with paintings of naval battles and rural landscapes.  At the summit he built a nine-story penthouse with a panoramic view of the Judean wilderness.  Herod later added his own mausoleum, 75 feet high, which could be seen even from Jerusalem.
 

Herodion as seen from the Mount of Olives in Jerusalem

Photo:  Gila Yudkin

Herodion as seen from the Mount of Olives in Jerusalem

 
Today at "Herod's Final Journey," a SPECTACULAR exhibit in Jerusalem's Israel Museum, you can appreciate the jaw-dropping opulence, wealth and impeccable taste of the cruel Judean despot ruling at the time of Jesus' birth.
 
We are stunned as we step into a reconstruction of the throne room where Herod died.  There we see original frescoes painted on the wall with rare and costly colors. Most brilliant is cinnabar, a bright red pigment, imported from Spain from a quarry owned by the Emperor Augustus himself.  The red pigment covering the walls would broadcast to Herod's guests that he was a close confidante of Augustus.  But it reminded me -- of Herod's gory history!
 
It was in this room in the Jericho palace that Herod's body was laid out on a golden bier encrusted with gems.  Wrapped in purple, with a crown on his head and a scepter beside his right hand, Herod departed on his final journey to Herodion where his corpse was laid in the sarcophagus and mausoleum he had prepared.
 
Next we have a flashback to the nitty gritty of how Herod lived: how he bathed and what he ate.
 
We see Herod's personal bathtub quarried from a stalactite cave, found in the bathhouse at the top of his mountain-fortress overlooking the Jericho-Jerusalem road. The fort was named Cypros, after his mother.  The royal bathtub weighs more than one ton.  I wonder how in the world they carried it up to the top of the fortress in one piece!
 
The bathtub is nearly five feet long.  (Once, when I was attending a seminar for guides in the courtyard of the Rockefeller Museum of Antiquities, I suddenly noticed I was sitting next to the famous bathtub and it was accessible.  I didn't dare step into it – not with everyone watching while the lecturer was speaking.  So I lay down on the ground next to it and nearly fit in! I'm 5 feet 6.)
 

Herod's personal hot tub

Photo:  Gila Yudkin

Herod's personal bathtub, once displayed at the Rockefeller Museum

 
Now, while admiring the bathtub next to the huge floor tiles of contrasting colors, I wondered whether Herod bathed with salts extracted from the Dead Sea nearby.  And did he favor the popular Dead Sea Ahava moisturizers?
 
Herod was a connoisseur of fine wine.  Excavators at Masada and Herodion found evidence of a shipment of 22 amphorae (large clay storage jars) filled with imported wine, inscribed with the date of 19 BC to King Herod from the vineyard of Lucius Laenius, a known aristocrat with estates in southern Italy.
 
In the exhibit I counted 55 large amphorae which would have been filled with not only wine, but apples, fish sauce and onions.  Some inscriptions even explicitly mention the owner of the goods: Herod, king of Judea.
 
One delicacy found on Herod's table was Spanish Garum which was a fish sauce prepared from the fermentation of fish in brine or salt.  Fish bones at the bottom of one jar identified them as anchovy and herring.  At Jericho, archeologists found an amphora that contained high-quality Garum produced from mackerel.  Garum, however, had one major disadvantage: it stank!
 
Even so, Garum was on the table at every upper class Roman banquet.  This gourmet stinky sauce was apparently as ubiquitous as Heinz ketchup at summer camp!
 
Herod's dinner table conformed to Roman culinary standards not only in boutique wine and gourmet sauces, but also in the choice of dessert.  Although Judea was known for its luscious dates and juicy figs, Herod apparently served apples, just like the emperor.  The apples were from Cumae, north of the Gulf of Naples.  Being imported, the apples obviously could not have been eaten fresh.  One scholar suggests that they were preserved in honey.  As they say, "We are what we eat."  Herod's wining and dining would have demonstrated his affinity for Rome.
 
But as a holy land guide, I couldn't help but contrast the venue, the menu and the elegant dishes to that of the Last Supper.
 
The exhibit ends with the reconstructed tomb.  Actual stones – 13 tons of them -- were brought from Herodion.  They were so heavy that the Israel Museum had to strengthen the building's foundations before receiving them.
 
Even as we admire Herod's mausoleum with its splendid red sarcophagus, we can't quite forget how he died.  First century AD historian Josephus Flavius colorfully describes Herod's afflictions: a constant fever, an unbearable itching all over his body, swelling on his feet, inflammation of the abdomen, worms in his genitals, pain in his colon and spasms in all his limbs.  Whew.
 

The late archeologist Ehud Netzer by Herod's presumed sarcophagus

Photo:  Gila Yudkin

The late Ehud Netzer by Herod's(?) ornate sarcophagus found in the mausoleum

 
After all the glory and riches and despite enormous economic prosperity for Judean residents, Herod's sarcophagus was smashed to pieces within a century.  At his funeral I imagine the vast majority of Judeans heaving a collective sign of relief while perhaps muttering Shalom Al Yisrael.  If you know Hebrew, then you understand it literally means "Peace to Israel."  But when we use it today in modern Israel, we really mean, "Good-bye and good riddance!"

 

Copyright 2013 Gila Yudkin.  Permission needed for any reuse.

 
Gila Yudkin, who calls herself a Connecticut-born Yankee living in King David's court, has been following the Herod story ever since 1981 when she went on Ehud Netzer's tour of his ongoing excavations in Jericho.  The following year he showed Gila and her colleagues where he thought he would find Herod's tomb.  But no dice.  Until the grand unexpected discovery 25 years later in 2007.  You can read about it at:
"Let's find Herod's Tomb at Herodion."
 
When Joseph and Mary hear of Herod's death, they return to the land of Israel.  But when they hear that Herod's son Archelaus was ruling over Judea, they went instead to Galilee and settled in Nazareth. (Matthew 2: 21-23)  At that time, Herod' son Antipas had initiated a building boom in nearby Sepphoris where Joseph may have found work.  For more, see "Let's consider whether Jesus visited Sepphoris."
 

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More on Herod's building projects
 
Pilate lived in the palace built by Herod in Casearea

Tour Herod's Temple Mount

Model of Herod's capital city

2000-year old aqueduct

Temple Mount

Model of Herod's capital

 
 

Copyright 2013 Gila Yudkin.  Permission needed for any reuse.


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